ART BE DAMNED!
THE FRENCH CONNECTION
A Documentary on the Golden Age of Fashion Photography
PHOTO: Toni Frissell 1947
THEY CAME FROM PARIS TO NEW YORK
AND ESTABLISHED A NEW ORDER
PHOTO: Lillian Bassman 1957
WAS IT FOR THE ART?
OR WAS IT SIMPLY THE FASHION?
PHOTO: Clifford Coffin 1954
THE FRENCH CONNECTION
NEW YORK, CENTRAL PARK 1973
PHOTO: Uli Rose 1973
A documentary by Jacek Kropiński
ART BE DAMNED!
1939 Memo to Vogue photographers from Edna Woolman Chase,
editor-in-chief Vogue magazine 1914-1952:
”Concentrate completely on showing the dress, light it for this purpose, and if that can’t be done with art, then art be damned! Show the dress.”
The battle between art and commerce has raged ever since.
PHOTO: William Helpburn - 1959
THE EDITORS AND WRITERS
PAM BARKENTIN EHERENBURG
JOAN JULIET BUCK
PHOTO: Irving Penn - 1952
The son of an American correspondent for Le Figaro, Alex Chatelain came to New York in 1963 to be a painter.
He assisted Jimmy Moore, Hiro and printed for Avedon before leaving for Paris to be a photographer in his own right. He started working for French Vogue and stayed in Europe, where he worked mostly for British Vogue before moving back to New York.
PHOTO: Vogue, June 1986
For over 40 years Arthur’s ideas of the modern woman and her take on fashion have appeared regularly on the covers and in the spreads of Vogue. His work with Vogue gained notoriety, which gave him the opportunity to shoot for Vogue’s international counterparts, as well as many other top fashion magazines.
PHOTO: "Christy in Alaia"
Born in Burbank California, Bob was studying art at UCLA when his friend the artist Bob Schulenberg gave him Richard Avedon's book "Observations". The book had such a profound effect on Bob he became a passionate photographer and moved to NY to further his career where he soon was booked by Alexander LIberman to shoot for Vogue.
PHOTO: Cheryl Tiegs, 1978
He was born in 1940 in Leicester, England, where he studied graphic design and photography. While in art school he won an international photo competition sponsored by the magazine Practical Photography and was hired by the Mayflower photo studio in London. In 1960, he moved to New York City, where he first worked as an assistant and studied under Alexey Brodovitch, Henry Wolf, and Melvin Sokolsky. He received his first assignment with Condé Nast Publications in 1963.
In 1964 Andy Warhol hired him to document a year in his life; the 400 duotone photos were published in 2003 as A Year in the Life of Andy Warhol.
PHOTO: Andy Warhol at the Factory, New-York City, 1964
Jacques Malignon was first hired by Mademoiselle magazine for a fashion spread in Paris. Seizing the opportunity to come to America, he hand delivered the images himself to the magazine’s headquarters in New York City. Staying in New York, his career took off where he shot for Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, GQ, Glamour, Seventeen, New York Times Magazine as well as countless covers and spreads for international magazines.
PHOTO: Jacques Malignon
John Stember is most known for his work as a fashion photographer, having created work for Vogue, Bazaar, Marie Claire, Glamour magazines, and more recently for his fine art photography in Tahiti.
Stember first became enamored with female beauty as a subject for his work in the 1960’s on meeting the stunning young supermodel Jean Shrimpton with David Bailey as a teenager, while working as an apprentice to fashion photographer John French in London. He subsequently opened his first photography studio in West Hampstead, London at age 19.
PHOTO: John Stember, Tahiti 2016
Grandson of the great German director Max Reinhardt. Mike was born in Los Angeles but grew up in Munich, Germany and France. Studied for Doctorate in Law from Aix-Marseille University in Aix-en-Provence.
PHOTO: Paris Vogue July 1979
Born in Paris, the son of a fashion designer, Patrice Casanova started photography in his teens. During his military service he worked as a photojournalist for the military magazine. After service Patrice went on tour with and shot musicians Sylvie Vartan and Johnny Halliday for French music magazines. He then tested models and one of then, an English model, became his girlfriend. When she went to MIlan he followed her and soon he was working for Italian and German magazines.
PHOTO: Helene Guetary & Patrice Casanova
An actor and avid photographer in New York, Tony followed his model girlfriend to Paris where he showed the art director of French Vogue some of his work and was booked to shoot for the magazine. He had a long and successful career in Paris.
PHOTO: Sylvie Vartan, Vogue Paris, April 1973
Born in Düsseldorff, his father was a photographer, as was his grandfather and his mother. Uli started photography in Germany and followed a girlfriend to Paris where he became friends with the other young photographers known as "The French Connection".
PHOTO: Uli Rose, Carol LaBrie, Paris 1976
Christie Brinkley is an American supermodel, actress, author, artist and entrepreneur. She gained worldwide fame beginning in the late 1970s with three consecutive Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue covers through 1981.
She spent twenty five years as the face of CoverGirl (the longest running cosmetics contract of any model in history, has appeared on over 500 magazine covers, and has signed contracts with major brands — both fashion and non-fashion.
PHOTO: Mike Reinhardt, 1983
One of the most accomplished and respected makeup artists, Brigitte Reiss-Andersen works at the highest level in both the fashion and celebrity worlds.
From the beginning she worked with the elite in Paris and New York: Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, Albert Watson, Patrick Demarchelier, Irving Penn, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino.
A master at her craft and a consummate expert on beauty. Her multi-cultural background, European upbringing and professional savvy make her a powerful player in her industry.
PHOTO: Miller Mobley, NY
Deborah Bell Photographs has been a dealer of fine-art photographs since 1988
In 2011 Bell closed her gallery to join Christie’s New York as Head of the Photographs Department.
In 2014 she re-established Deborah Bell Photographs.
A native of Minnesota, Bell received a BFA in Photography from the Minneapolis College of Art and Design in 1976, and an MA in Art History from Hunter College in 1984.
From 1991-96 she was an adjunct professor of the History of Photography at the School of Visual Arts, New York.
PHOTO: William SILANO (American, 1934-2014) Harper's Bazaar, May 1968
"Peggy" Moffitt was an icon in the 60's, setting a radical 60's style that she became famous for.
During the 1960s, she worked very closely with fashion designer Rudi Gernreich, a signature style, pop clothes, false eyelashes and heavy eye makeup.
Her hairstyle, an asymmetrical bowl cut, created by Vidal Sassoon, became known as the "five point". Her unique look became an icon of the 1960s fashion scene.
PEGGY'S WIKIPEDIA PAGE
PHOTO: William Claxton, May 1968
Tim Trompeter journeyed alone with notebook, sketchbook and camera in remote areas of Asia and Australia.
He worked successfully in fashion photography in Paris, while collaborating with poets of the LANGUAGE movement.
His fine art prints have been exhibited and collected internationally.
Tim Trompeter, NY
Jeffrey studied photography under the post war New York School photographers, Jerry Liebling and Elaine Mays and painting with Arthur Hoener.
Post college, he was a photo assistant to modern masters Richard Avedon, and Bruce Weber while attending The Whitney Independent Study program.
Jeffrey Rothstein, NY